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The idea of fashion under socialism conjures up images of babushka headscarves and black market blue jeans. And yet, as Djurdja Bartlett shows in this groundbreaking book, the socialist East had an intimate relationship with fashion. Official antagonism—which cast fashion as frivolous and antirevolutionary—eventually gave way to grudging acceptance and creeping(...)
Fashion East : the spectre that haunted socialism
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The idea of fashion under socialism conjures up images of babushka headscarves and black market blue jeans. And yet, as Djurdja Bartlett shows in this groundbreaking book, the socialist East had an intimate relationship with fashion. Official antagonism—which cast fashion as frivolous and antirevolutionary—eventually gave way to grudging acceptance and creeping consumerism. Bartlett outlines three phases in socialist fashion, and illustrates them with abundant images from magazines of the period: postrevolutionary utopian dress, official state-sanctioned socialist fashion, and samizdat-style everyday fashion. Utopian dress, ranging from the geometric abstraction of the constructivists under Bolshevism in the Soviet Union to the no-frills desexualized uniform of a factory worker in Czechoslovakia, reflected the revolutionary urge for a clean break with the past. The highly centralized socialist fashion system, part of Stalinist industrialization, offered official prototypes of high fashion that were never available in stores—mythical images of smart and luxurious dresses that symbolized the economic progress that socialist regimes dreamed of. Everyday fashion, starting in the 1950s, was an unofficial, do-it-yourself enterprise: Western fashions obtained through semiclandestine channels or sewn at home. The state tolerated the demand for Western fashion, promising the burgeoning middle class consumer goods in exchange for political loyalty. Bartlett traces the progress of socialist fashion in the Soviet Union, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, East Germany, Poland, and Yugoslavia, drawing on state-sponsored socialist women’s magazines, etiquette books, socialist manuals on dress, private archives, and her own interviews with designers, fashion editors, and other key figures. Fashion, she suggests, with all its ephemerality and dynamism, was in perpetual conflict with the socialist regimes’ fear of change and need for control. It was, to echo the famous first sentence from the Communist Manifesto, the spectre that haunted socialism until the end.
books
October 2010
Fashion Design
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Afin de faire le point sur ses années de pratique en tant qu’architecte et designer, Maryla Sobek propose de considérer ensemble ces deux activités que sont l’architecture et le vêtement. La réflexion théorique à laquelle elle a consacré plusieurs années l’aura menée à un constat : la conception du vêtement occidental se trouve dans une impasse, et ce tant du point de vue(...)
Taller
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Afin de faire le point sur ses années de pratique en tant qu’architecte et designer, Maryla Sobek propose de considérer ensemble ces deux activités que sont l’architecture et le vêtement. La réflexion théorique à laquelle elle a consacré plusieurs années l’aura menée à un constat : la conception du vêtement occidental se trouve dans une impasse, et ce tant du point de vue de la structure que de la volumétrie. Quelles sont les solutions qui permettraient au vêtement de ne plus être tributaire des dimensions et de la structure du corps humain ? Sobek s’est lancé le défi de les explorer. Pour ce faire, elle se tourne vers l’architecture et opte pour un retour aux sources. Le choix d’une architecture non occidentale s’est imposé, plus particulièrement l’architecture dogon que l’on peut voir dans la falaise de Bandigara au Mali et qui est aujourd’hui considérée comme le parfait exemple de la rationalité en architecture vernaculaire.
Fashion Design
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In nineteenth-century Europe and the United States, fashion—once the province of the well-to-do—began to make its way across class lines. At once a democratizing influence and a means of maintaining distinctions, gaps in time remained between what the upper classes wore and what the lower classes later copied. And toward the end of the century, style also moved from the(...)
Fashioning the nineteenth century: habits of being 3
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In nineteenth-century Europe and the United States, fashion—once the province of the well-to-do—began to make its way across class lines. At once a democratizing influence and a means of maintaining distinctions, gaps in time remained between what the upper classes wore and what the lower classes later copied. And toward the end of the century, style also moved from the streets to the parlor. The third in a four-part series charting the social, cultural, and political expression of clothing, dress, and accessories, Fashioning the Nineteenth Century focuses on this transformative period in an effort to show how certain items of apparel acquired the status of fashion and how fashion shifted from the realm of the elites into the emerging middle and working classes—and back.
Fashion Design
Make do and mend
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Make Do and Mend was first published as a pamphlet in 1943, as a cheerful reminder of the techniques for household solutions provided by wartime government. Now, republished in the twenty-first century, these tips can be used to spruce up your household and wardrobe on a dime. The book includes old-fashioned remedies for everything from washing silks to repelling the(...)
Make do and mend
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Make Do and Mend was first published as a pamphlet in 1943, as a cheerful reminder of the techniques for household solutions provided by wartime government. Now, republished in the twenty-first century, these tips can be used to spruce up your household and wardrobe on a dime. The book includes old-fashioned remedies for everything from washing silks to repelling the “moth menace,” as well as patterns and directions on how to patch holes in clothing with stylish fabric, and how to take scraps of wool to create new looks.
Women in clothes
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Women in Clothes embraces the complexity of women’s style decisions, revealing the sometimes funny, sometimes strange, always thoughtful impulses that influence our daily ritual of getting dressed.
Women in clothes
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Women in Clothes embraces the complexity of women’s style decisions, revealing the sometimes funny, sometimes strange, always thoughtful impulses that influence our daily ritual of getting dressed.
Fashion Design
Marimekko: in patterns
$42.00
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Richly illustrated with photographs and prints both classic and new, this volume offers a behind-the-scenes tour of the brand's creative process. A colorful legacy is revealed, along with the innovative creators—from 1950s pioneers to twenty-first-century masters—who have shaped the company's heritage and continue to make visual magic today. Rare sketchbook pages,(...)
Marimekko: in patterns
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Richly illustrated with photographs and prints both classic and new, this volume offers a behind-the-scenes tour of the brand's creative process. A colorful legacy is revealed, along with the innovative creators—from 1950s pioneers to twenty-first-century masters—who have shaped the company's heritage and continue to make visual magic today. Rare sketchbook pages, in-depth looks at particular eras, and page after page of gorgeous designs make this a book sure to enchant anyone interested in fashion, art, or the patterned and color-drenched world of Marimekko.
Fashion Design
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Mappamodello
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Mappamodello, by designer Nanni Strada, contains the models created in 1974 for the competition “Arab-Islamic National Dress” which subsequently became a classic in the collection produced and distributed by the Milanese shop “Oriente e Cina”. It consists of a series of clothes inspired by work clothes, and other models which, thanks to their ‘any size’ cut, appeared in(...)
Mappamodello
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Mappamodello, by designer Nanni Strada, contains the models created in 1974 for the competition “Arab-Islamic National Dress” which subsequently became a classic in the collection produced and distributed by the Milanese shop “Oriente e Cina”. It consists of a series of clothes inspired by work clothes, and other models which, thanks to their ‘any size’ cut, appeared in some of the world's most famous women's magazines, and were copied throughout the world. Mappamodello is a blueprint of these historic clothes, all contained on a single paper pattern.
books
October 2012
Fashion Design
$75.00
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The contributors to this book explore how dynamic displays of costume have helped visualize certain key concerns of modernity, such as movement, time, transience and gender identity. Above all, the essays highlight the immense transformative potential of costume and fashion, both in the moving image and beyond.
Birds of paradise : costume as cinematic spectacle
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The contributors to this book explore how dynamic displays of costume have helped visualize certain key concerns of modernity, such as movement, time, transience and gender identity. Above all, the essays highlight the immense transformative potential of costume and fashion, both in the moving image and beyond.
Fashion Design
Artists' textiles 1940-1975
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The development of textiles as an art form between 1945 and 1970, and the extent of collaboration between artists and textile manufacturers at this time, is unrivalled in modern art history. This book is an important and comprehensive survey of this art form in Britain and America. There are approximately 200 color images, many of which have never been seen before,(...)
Artists' textiles 1940-1975
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The development of textiles as an art form between 1945 and 1970, and the extent of collaboration between artists and textile manufacturers at this time, is unrivalled in modern art history. This book is an important and comprehensive survey of this art form in Britain and America. There are approximately 200 color images, many of which have never been seen before, alongside specially commissioned photography.
Fashion Design
$43.95
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Cet ouvrage propose d’écrire l’histoire de la mode sous un angle inhabituel, sans se focaliser sur ses créateurs ou ses pièces, mais en analysant les discours qui, sous diverses formes, ont permis à la mode de se constituer comme discipline à part entière. En cela, « L’Idée de mode » déjoue les attentes communément accolées aux publications sur le sujet et mêle analyse de(...)
L'Idée de mode : Une nouvelle histoire, tome 1
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Cet ouvrage propose d’écrire l’histoire de la mode sous un angle inhabituel, sans se focaliser sur ses créateurs ou ses pièces, mais en analysant les discours qui, sous diverses formes, ont permis à la mode de se constituer comme discipline à part entière. En cela, « L’Idée de mode » déjoue les attentes communément accolées aux publications sur le sujet et mêle analyse de textes, histoire, et études visuelles dans le but d’intégrer cette discipline au champ plus large du design. Émilie Hammen replace ainsi la mode dans une histoire des idées qui prend sa source dans la période postrévolutionnaire en France, pour s’achever avec l’âge des avant-gardes au début du XXe siècle. À travers ce long XIXe siècle, se dessine une historiographie qui s’attache avant tout à identifier certains énonciateurs – ceux qui parlent et définissent ainsi successivement la mode au cours de cette période. En étudiant ces acteurs ainsi que le jeu de leurs apparitions et de leurs disparitions, l’autrice repense les tournants et les ruptures traditionnellement consacrés par les changements des silhouettes qui accompagnent souvent les mutations des régimes politiques. À la modification de la forme d’une manche ou d’une longueur de jupe, cette étude propose de substituer le passage du littérateur au tailleur, celui de l’ingénieur au créateur. Il s’agit ainsi moins de considérer la mode comme manifestation matérielle ou visuelle, que comme un ensemble de discours produits et pris en charge par des groupes socio-professionnels différents. Sans pour autant renoncer aux sources historiographiques qui ont composé les belles heures des histoires du costume, cet ouvrage entreprend plutôt de les éclairer d’un jour nouveau.
Fashion Design