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The first visual history of Modernist Italian fashion during Benito Mussolini's Fascist regime, and the product of immense research, Fashion at the Time of Fascism charts the fashion industry's ambivalent negotiation of international couture and the bizarre dictates of Fascism, and the legacy of this era in shaping today's fashion industry. Authors Mario Lupano and(...)
Fashion at the time of Fascism
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The first visual history of Modernist Italian fashion during Benito Mussolini's Fascist regime, and the product of immense research, Fashion at the Time of Fascism charts the fashion industry's ambivalent negotiation of international couture and the bizarre dictates of Fascism, and the legacy of this era in shaping today's fashion industry. Authors Mario Lupano and Alessandra Vaccari explore and compare a large range of forgotten archival sources, such as women's glossies, fashion, film and gossip magazines, photo archives, exhibition and commercial catalogues, books, manuals and magazines on tailoring, dressmaking, design and architecture, and corporate and government journals. This abundance of materials is presented in a fluid sequence of image and text that charts the rhythms, rituals and lifestyles of the typical Italian day through the four basic themes of "Measurements," "Model," "Brand" and "Parade." Each section includes texts that highlight the key figures and phases in Italian fashion, from the 1920s to the early 1940s, juxtaposing them with Modernism's broader salient themes and emphasizing the conscious use of glamour in the regime's super-choreographed portrayal of itself.
Fashion Design
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"Robinson believed that, if he looked at it hard enough, he could cause the surface of the city to reveal to him the molecular basis of historical events, and in this way he hoped to see into the future." In his sequence of films, Patrick Keiller retraces the hidden story of the places where we live, the cities and landscapes of our everyday lives. Now, in this(...)
The view from the train : cities and other landscapes
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"Robinson believed that, if he looked at it hard enough, he could cause the surface of the city to reveal to him the molecular basis of historical events, and in this way he hoped to see into the future." In his sequence of films, Patrick Keiller retraces the hidden story of the places where we live, the cities and landscapes of our everyday lives. Now, in this brilliant collection of essays, he offers a new perspective on how Britain works and sees itself. He discusses the background to his work and its development – from surrealism to post-2008 economic catastrophe – and expands on what the films reveal. Referencing writers including Benjamin and Lefebvre, the essays follow his career since the late 1970s, exploring themes including the surrealist perception of the city; the relationship of architecture and film; how cities change over time, and how films represent this; as well as accounts of cross-country journeys involving historical figures, unexpected ideas and an urgent portrait of post-crash Britain.
Urban Theory
Chronology
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“It has never been my ambition to treat artworks as illustrations of philosophical doctrines. Rather, I believe that the works explored give rise to their own set of concepts.” A philosophical essay on time, phenomenology and beyond, Daniel Birnbaum’s Chronology was recently reviewed in the April 2006 issue of frieze as a “compelling and sophisticated take on the(...)
Chronology
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“It has never been my ambition to treat artworks as illustrations of philosophical doctrines. Rather, I believe that the works explored give rise to their own set of concepts.” A philosophical essay on time, phenomenology and beyond, Daniel Birnbaum’s Chronology was recently reviewed in the April 2006 issue of frieze as a “compelling and sophisticated take on the common theme of Deleuzian immanence.” Whereas many theoretical books littering the bookshops of art institutions are laudations of excess, Birnbaum’s convictions presented in Chronology cut a way through the “caesuras of non-meaning and blankness into the thick web of sense.” The works of artists such as Stan Douglas, Eija-Liisa Athila, Doug Aitken, Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster, Tacita Dean, Darren Almond, Tobias Rehberger, Pierre Huyghe, and Philippe Parreno are scrutinized as so many attempts to capture the very dialectic of time itself. As Brian Dillon writes in frieze, “Birnbaum’s notion of an art of unpredictable becoming … has its aporias too. A brief aside apropos Matthew Barney – to the effect that his art is all meaning, all of the time – is quite telling.” Daniel Birnbaum is Rector of the Städelschule in Frankfurt am Main and Director of its Portikus gallery. A contributing editor of Artforum, he is the author of a number of texts on art and philosophy.
Architectural Theory
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Mapping England
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England has been continuously mapped from Medieval times to the present; politically, administratively and functionally as well as creatively and imaginatively. Maps have helped to define ideas of what England is and could be. They have developed and maintained its identity amongst other nations and explored its essential character and limits. The maps included show a(...)
Mapping England
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England has been continuously mapped from Medieval times to the present; politically, administratively and functionally as well as creatively and imaginatively. Maps have helped to define ideas of what England is and could be. They have developed and maintained its identity amongst other nations and explored its essential character and limits. The maps included show a country at times confident but also unsure of itself. Often drawn for purely practical purposes they frequently and unconsciously reveal the true state of the nation, and the hopes and fears of its inhabitants. England has been the crucible for many of the most significant developments in cartography and Mapping England tells the story of how its position in the world has evolved and, in so doing, entails new ways of seeing and expressing such findings in graphic form.
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October 2008
Architectural Plans and Cartography
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The cradle-to-cradle principle envisions buildings returning to the natural cycle after use. In practice, however, most are only partially composed of natural or compostable materials. One notable exception is Florian Nagler’s Garden House, winner of the Detail Award, which closely follows this principle. Another route is the reuse or refurbishment of components from(...)
Detail 6 2025 : Circular construction
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The cradle-to-cradle principle envisions buildings returning to the natural cycle after use. In practice, however, most are only partially composed of natural or compostable materials. One notable exception is Florian Nagler’s Garden House, winner of the Detail Award, which closely follows this principle. Another route is the reuse or refurbishment of components from demolished buildings. But this, too, is complex – components are often scarce and costly to extract and and make fit for new applications. To facilitate recycling, some structures are being designed for disassembly. Yet even timber joints fixed with screws can prove difficult to undo after years in place. A research group in Arles sees itself as a recycler of remnants, developing new materials from construction debris and agricultural waste: sunflower stalks become acoustic panels, while rice straw from cultivation is turned into insulation. The team also experiments with local resources: in nearby salt pans, salt crystallises on metal racks to form tiles, while algae are used to make lamps, vases, and wall finishes. Architecture made from rubble, clad in salt, rice, and seaweed – a compelling vision of the future. Perhaps the most promising path lies in combining these diverse strategies.
Magazines
The spirit of the Bauhaus
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“Architects, sculptors, painters, we all must return to the crafts!” declared architect Walter Gropius in his Bauhaus manifesto. Founded in 1919 as an art school in Weimar, the Bauhaus established itself as a major influence on twentieth- century art and design. Bauhaus students were taught by some of the most celebrated artists of the time, including Paul Klee, Lyonel(...)
The spirit of the Bauhaus
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“Architects, sculptors, painters, we all must return to the crafts!” declared architect Walter Gropius in his Bauhaus manifesto. Founded in 1919 as an art school in Weimar, the Bauhaus established itself as a major influence on twentieth- century art and design. Bauhaus students were taught by some of the most celebrated artists of the time, including Paul Klee, Lyonel Feininger, and Wassily Kandinsky. Having moved to Berlin in 1932 under architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, it was forced to close for good by the Gestapo in 1933. Uncovering the sources of inspiration that brought the Bauhaus into existence, from medieval cathedrals of Europe and Hokusai prints to William Morris and Arts and Crafts, The Spirit of the Bauhaus explores workshops and courses in detail, illustrating the extraordinary wealth of experimentation in every medium: ceramics, wood and metalwork, textiles, glass- painting, sculpture, mural, printing and binding, theater, architecture, and photography. This essential and accessible guide to the Bauhaus, published in time for the 100th anniversary of the school in 2019, celebrates a school that continues to be recognized as the most durable and influential source of modern ideas about art, design, and craft.
Modernism
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This publication examines the various figures and interests involved in the design and construction of the Canada Pavilion and explores how it was used over the past sixty years to exhibit the work of Canadian artists and architects. This publication intends not only to underline the pavilion's importance in the broader context of modern architecture, but also to(...)
The Canada Pavilion at the Venice Biennale
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This publication examines the various figures and interests involved in the design and construction of the Canada Pavilion and explores how it was used over the past sixty years to exhibit the work of Canadian artists and architects. This publication intends not only to underline the pavilion's importance in the broader context of modern architecture, but also to highlight its role as an early example of cultural diplomacy. The book is fully endowed with archive material, such as photographs, drawings, and maps, along with a portfolio created by contemporary photographers (Francesco Barasciutti and Andrea Pertoldeo), showing the building before, during, and after the restoration. The essays of the various contributors to the book analyze the cultural and political context in which the Canada Pavilion committee worked (Cammie McAtee); the concept and construction of the building and the links with the architect Enrico Peressutti and the BBPR partnership (Réjean Legault); the pavilion's role in the postwar Italian cultural context (Serena Maffioletti) and its fortunes from its inauguration in 1958 to the restoration in 2018 (Josée Drouin-Brisebois); the restoration project itself (Susanna Caccia Gherardine), and, lastly, the relationship between the Canada Pavilion and the Biennale Gardens (Franco Panzini).
Biennial
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The last explosive change in art education came nearly a century ago, when the German Bauhaus was formed. Today, dramatic changes in the art world—its increasing professionalization, the pervasive power of the art market, and fundamental shifts in art-making itself in our post-Duchampian era—combined with a revolution in information technology, raise fundamental questions(...)
Art school (propositions for the 21st century)
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The last explosive change in art education came nearly a century ago, when the German Bauhaus was formed. Today, dramatic changes in the art world—its increasing professionalization, the pervasive power of the art market, and fundamental shifts in art-making itself in our post-Duchampian era—combined with a revolution in information technology, raise fundamental questions about the education of today's artists. This book brings together more than thirty leading international artists and art educators to reconsider the practices of art education in academic, practical, ethical, and philosophical terms. The essays in the book range over continents, histories, traditions, experiments, and fantasies of education. Accompanying the essays are conversations with such prominent artist/educators as John Baldessari, Michael Craig-Martin, Hans Haacke, and Marina Abramovi, as well as questionnaire responses from a dozen important artists—among them Mike Kelley, Ann Hamilton, Guillermo Kuitca, and Shirin Neshat—about their own experiences as students. A fascinating analysis of the architecture of major historical art schools throughout the world looks at the relationship of the principles of their designs to the principles of the pedagogy practiced within their halls.
Art Theory
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"Filth" is concerned with what waste reveals about the culture that creates it. From floating barges of urban refuse to dung-encrusted works of art, from toxic landfills to dirty movies, filth has become a major presence and a point of volatile contention in modern life. This book explores the question of what filth has to do with culture: what critical role the lost,(...)
Architectural Theory
January 2005, Minneapolis
Filth : dirt, disgust, and modern life
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"Filth" is concerned with what waste reveals about the culture that creates it. From floating barges of urban refuse to dung-encrusted works of art, from toxic landfills to dirty movies, filth has become a major presence and a point of volatile contention in modern life. This book explores the question of what filth has to do with culture: what critical role the lost, the rejected, the abject, and the dirty play in social management and identity formation. It suggests the ongoing power of culturally mandated categories of exclusion and repression. Focusing on filth in literary and cultural materials from London, Paris, and their colonial outposts in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the essays in "Filth" - all but one previously unpublished - range over topics as diverse as the building of sewers in nineteenth-century European metropolises, the link between interior design and bourgeois sanitary phobias, the fictional representation of labouring women and foreigners as polluting, and relations among disease, disorder, and sexual-racial disharmony. "Filth" provides the first sustained consideration, both theoretical and historical, of a subject whose power to horrify, fascinate, and repel is as old as civilization itself. Contributors: David S. Barnes, Neil Blackadder, Joseph Bristow, Joseph W. Childers, Eileen Cleere, Natalka Freeland, Pamela K. Gilbert, Christopher Hamlin, William Kupinse, Benjamin Lazier, David L. Pike, David Trotter.
Architectural Theory
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In this book, Karen O'Rourke explores a series of walking/mapping projects by contemporary artists. Some chart "emotional GPS"; some use GPS for creating "datascapes" while others use their legs to do "speculative mapping." Many work with scientists, designers, and engineers. O'Rourke offers close readings of these works -- many of which she was able to experience(...)
March 2013
Walking and mapping: artists as cartographers
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In this book, Karen O'Rourke explores a series of walking/mapping projects by contemporary artists. Some chart "emotional GPS"; some use GPS for creating "datascapes" while others use their legs to do "speculative mapping." Many work with scientists, designers, and engineers. O'Rourke offers close readings of these works -- many of which she was able to experience firsthand -- and situates them in relation to landmark works from the past half-century. She shows that the infinitesimal details of each of these projects take on more significance in conjunction with others. Together, they form a new entity, a dynamic whole greater than the sum of its parts. By alternating close study of selected projects with a broader view of their place in a bigger picture, Walking and Mapping itself maps a complex phenomena.