Cinzia Ruggeri: Cinzia says
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Artist and fashion designer Cinzia Ruggeri (1942–2019) made her artistic research a tool for inquiry into the functional and semantic properties of the object and the architectural and social dimension of the body, according to an original and nonconformist perspective enriched by irony and oneirism. This is the first monograph on this unconventional figure who moved(...)
Cinzia Ruggeri: Cinzia says
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Artist and fashion designer Cinzia Ruggeri (1942–2019) made her artistic research a tool for inquiry into the functional and semantic properties of the object and the architectural and social dimension of the body, according to an original and nonconformist perspective enriched by irony and oneirism. This is the first monograph on this unconventional figure who moved across disciplines with absolute freedom. Her life and versatile practice were driven by the desire to redefine the formal and functional status of elements of everyday life, from apparel to accessories, from furnishings to lighting. Ruggeri created imaginative, provocative, elegant, and never predictable worlds.
Fashion Design
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''Radical fashion erxercises'' contains a copious collection of bottom-up activities, prompts, and workshops designed by contributors (from all around the globe), who explore fashion in an expanded field. Designers, curators, artists, educators, fashion practitioners, DIY home sewers, students, and other creatives responded to the book’s open call with contributions that(...)
Fashion Design
September 2023
Radical fashion exercises: a workbook of modes and methods
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''Radical fashion erxercises'' contains a copious collection of bottom-up activities, prompts, and workshops designed by contributors (from all around the globe), who explore fashion in an expanded field. Designers, curators, artists, educators, fashion practitioners, DIY home sewers, students, and other creatives responded to the book’s open call with contributions that challenge how to practice fashion and reflect on its systems, politics and economics. The exercises collected in this book embrace interdisciplinarity, experimentation, and aesthetics and widen fashion’s horizons as a medium for expression, embodiment and sociality. Radical Fashion Exercises assembles methods for learning and practicing fashion in meaningful, radical and responsible ways. The book is an inspiring tool for design students, designers, writers, and practitioners of diverse disciplines to challenge fashion as a commodity and polluting structure in these times of uncertainty and upheaval.
Fashion Design
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The traditional costumes of Brittany carry with them a multitude evolutions and diverse influences that reflect a mosaic of geographical contexts within the region. Since childhood, Aurélie Scouarnec has been captivated by the materials and intricate details of these costumes, worn by family members across different generations. Her photographic project ‘'Revêtir'’(...)
Aurélie Scouarnec: Revêtir - Dress
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The traditional costumes of Brittany carry with them a multitude evolutions and diverse influences that reflect a mosaic of geographical contexts within the region. Since childhood, Aurélie Scouarnec has been captivated by the materials and intricate details of these costumes, worn by family members across different generations. Her photographic project ‘'Revêtir'’ focuses on those who still wear these garments today, following the activities of various groups during championships and festivities, with particular attention for the young dancers involved. The series also offers an intimate look at individual interactions and the suspended time of preparations and rehearsals.
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In the 1970's, Paris fashion exploded like a champagne bottle left out in the sun. Amid sequins and longing, celebrities and aspirants flocked to the heart of chic, and Paris became a hothouse of reverly, intrigue, and searing ambition. At the center of it all were fashion's most beloved luminaries, Yves Saint Laurent, the reclusive enfant terrible, and Karl Lagerfeld,(...)
The Beautiful Fall: fashion, genius, and glorius excess in 1970's Paris
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In the 1970's, Paris fashion exploded like a champagne bottle left out in the sun. Amid sequins and longing, celebrities and aspirants flocked to the heart of chic, and Paris became a hothouse of reverly, intrigue, and searing ambition. At the center of it all were fashion's most beloved luminaries, Yves Saint Laurent, the reclusive enfant terrible, and Karl Lagerfeld, the flamboyant freelancer with a talent for reinvention, and they divided Paris into two fabulous halves. Their enduring rivalry is chronicled in this dazzling exposé of an era: of social ambitions, shared obsessions, and the mesmerizing quest for beauty.
Fashion Design
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Cet ouvrage propose d’écrire l’histoire de la mode sous un angle inhabituel, sans se focaliser sur ses créateurs ou ses pièces, mais en analysant les discours qui, sous diverses formes, ont permis à la mode de se constituer comme discipline à part entière. En cela, « L’Idée de mode » déjoue les attentes communément accolées aux publications sur le sujet et mêle analyse de(...)
L'Idée de mode : Une nouvelle histoire, tome 1
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Cet ouvrage propose d’écrire l’histoire de la mode sous un angle inhabituel, sans se focaliser sur ses créateurs ou ses pièces, mais en analysant les discours qui, sous diverses formes, ont permis à la mode de se constituer comme discipline à part entière. En cela, « L’Idée de mode » déjoue les attentes communément accolées aux publications sur le sujet et mêle analyse de textes, histoire, et études visuelles dans le but d’intégrer cette discipline au champ plus large du design. Émilie Hammen replace ainsi la mode dans une histoire des idées qui prend sa source dans la période postrévolutionnaire en France, pour s’achever avec l’âge des avant-gardes au début du XXe siècle. À travers ce long XIXe siècle, se dessine une historiographie qui s’attache avant tout à identifier certains énonciateurs – ceux qui parlent et définissent ainsi successivement la mode au cours de cette période. En étudiant ces acteurs ainsi que le jeu de leurs apparitions et de leurs disparitions, l’autrice repense les tournants et les ruptures traditionnellement consacrés par les changements des silhouettes qui accompagnent souvent les mutations des régimes politiques. À la modification de la forme d’une manche ou d’une longueur de jupe, cette étude propose de substituer le passage du littérateur au tailleur, celui de l’ingénieur au créateur. Il s’agit ainsi moins de considérer la mode comme manifestation matérielle ou visuelle, que comme un ensemble de discours produits et pris en charge par des groupes socio-professionnels différents. Sans pour autant renoncer aux sources historiographiques qui ont composé les belles heures des histoires du costume, cet ouvrage entreprend plutôt de les éclairer d’un jour nouveau.
Fashion Design
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Made by generations of women, the folk garment of the Romanian blouse secured its language despite eons of fierce changes. Author Simona Bortis-Schultz creates a cultural-historical biography of the blouse, from Neolithic beginnings in northeastern Romania and western Ukraine, through the period of folk revival, the Communist era and the post-Communist emigration out of(...)
To hold your heart in your teeth, women's work: the visual language of the Romanian blouse
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Made by generations of women, the folk garment of the Romanian blouse secured its language despite eons of fierce changes. Author Simona Bortis-Schultz creates a cultural-historical biography of the blouse, from Neolithic beginnings in northeastern Romania and western Ukraine, through the period of folk revival, the Communist era and the post-Communist emigration out of the region. Design, location, colors and their semiotic significance relay the elements of a deliberate communication carried forth by women through enduring craft from prehistory to today. The Romanian proverb “to hold your heart in your teeth” means to move forward bravely despite fear. The book is an homage to generations of resilient women: honoring the design qualities of this feminine fortitude and the garment they made to survive.
Fashion Design
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"Sleeping beauties: Reawakening fashion" explores clothing’s complex relationship with the body through the senses, offering new ways for understanding and experiencing a garment’s inherent artistry. Engaging texts by scholars, scientists, and conservators reveal the history behind over 200 works of fashion while also addressing their fragility and(...)
Sleeping beauties: Reawakening fashion
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"Sleeping beauties: Reawakening fashion" explores clothing’s complex relationship with the body through the senses, offering new ways for understanding and experiencing a garment’s inherent artistry. Engaging texts by scholars, scientists, and conservators reveal the history behind over 200 works of fashion while also addressing their fragility and ephemerality. Exceptional new photography by Nick Knight of creations by international couturiers and design houses—including Cristòbal Balenciaga, Thom Browne, Collina Strada, Christian Dior, Gucci, Charles James, LOEWE, Madame Grès, Thebe Magugu, Maison Margiela, Alexander McQueen, Issey Miyake, Paul Poiret, Yves Saint Laurent, Elsa Schiaparelli, Bea Szenfeld, Philip Treacy, Iris van Herpen, Louis Vuitton, and Charles Frederick Worth—further deepens our appreciation for each object’s sensorial integrity.
Fashion Design
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Les toques et turbans de Rembrandt, les foulards d'Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, George Sand en costume masculin, le pantalon de Rosa Bonheur, la robe de chambre de Balzac par Rodin, Marcel Duchamp en Rrose Sélavy, les Robes simultanées de Sonia Delaunay, la Robe serpent de Niki de Saint Phalle ou encore la perruque d'Andy Warhol... L'habit ferait-il l'artiste ? Dans une(...)
S'habiller en artiste : L'artiste et le vêtement
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Les toques et turbans de Rembrandt, les foulards d'Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, George Sand en costume masculin, le pantalon de Rosa Bonheur, la robe de chambre de Balzac par Rodin, Marcel Duchamp en Rrose Sélavy, les Robes simultanées de Sonia Delaunay, la Robe serpent de Niki de Saint Phalle ou encore la perruque d'Andy Warhol... L'habit ferait-il l'artiste ? Dans une exploration inédite du vêtement d'artiste de la Renaissance à nos jours, cet ouvrage présente plus de deux cents oeuvres - peintures, sculptures mais aussi vêtements, créations de haute couture, photographies et performances - et livre une autre manière de tisser ensemble histoire de la mode et histoire de l'art.
Fashion Design
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La mode québécoise peut-elle réinventer son modèle pour devenir plus responsable et locale ? Les fibres naturelles sont-elles la clé pour réconcilier la mode et le respect de l'environnement ? Découvrez comment vos choix vestimentaires transforment ce secteur grâce à « Tisser l'avenir : Vers une mode québécoise responsable ». Entre histoire, innovation et durabilité, ce(...)
Tisser l'avenir: vers une mode québécoise responsable
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La mode québécoise peut-elle réinventer son modèle pour devenir plus responsable et locale ? Les fibres naturelles sont-elles la clé pour réconcilier la mode et le respect de l'environnement ? Découvrez comment vos choix vestimentaires transforment ce secteur grâce à « Tisser l'avenir : Vers une mode québécoise responsable ». Entre histoire, innovation et durabilité, ce manifeste pour la mode durable explore l'évolution de cet écosystème, de la production des fibres – naturelles, artificielles et synthétiques – jusqu'à leur commercialisation. Il valorise le savoir-faire régional, encourage les pratiques circulaires et appelle une communauté diversifiée – agriculteurs, designers, entrepreneurs – à repenser leurs pratiques. Une invitation à imaginer la mode non plus comme une simple industrie, mais comme un dialogue vivant entre tradition et innovation, de la ferme à la mode.
Fashion Design
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Traditionally the visual sign of clanship and district, tartan was popularized outside Scotland by the tartan-clad Highland regiments and Queen Victoria's royal endorsement. Hollywood has continued to sustain the romantic fictions of tartan from Brigadoon to Braveheart. At the same time, designers such as Westwood and McQueen have deliberately subverted the traditional(...)
Tartan
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Traditionally the visual sign of clanship and district, tartan was popularized outside Scotland by the tartan-clad Highland regiments and Queen Victoria's royal endorsement. Hollywood has continued to sustain the romantic fictions of tartan from Brigadoon to Braveheart. At the same time, designers such as Westwood and McQueen have deliberately subverted the traditional and historical associations of the fabric, as have contemporary artists such as Matthew Barney. Post-punk, tartan now turns up in the most surprising places, influencing the conceptual clothing of a generation of Japanese designers such as Watanabe and Takahashi, the stage costumes of Outkast's Andre 3000 and contemporary interior design.
Fashion Design