Yves Saint-Laurent
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Sous la direction de Florence Müller et Farid Chenoune, on découvre un entretien inédit avec Pierre Bergé, une longue chronologie richement illustrée, le vestiaire des femmes modernes inventé par Yves Saint Laurent, des portraits de "femmes Saint Laurent" (Loulou de la Falaise, Lauren Bacall, Betty Catroux, Paloma Picasso...), des photographies de Richard Avedon, Jeanloup(...)
Yves Saint-Laurent
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Sous la direction de Florence Müller et Farid Chenoune, on découvre un entretien inédit avec Pierre Bergé, une longue chronologie richement illustrée, le vestiaire des femmes modernes inventé par Yves Saint Laurent, des portraits de "femmes Saint Laurent" (Loulou de la Falaise, Lauren Bacall, Betty Catroux, Paloma Picasso...), des photographies de Richard Avedon, Jeanloup Sieff, Helmut Newton, Pierre Boulat..., ainsi que le catalogue complet des modèles présentés.
Fashion Design
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In order to justify the singular vision and approach of this celebrated Japanese fashion designer, the organisers of this retrospective at the MOCA, Detroit decided to create an all-compassing installation – with numerous individual pieces selected in order to reveal a complex and multifaceted whole. Presenting the fruits of a practice that spans more than 20 years, the(...)
Rei Kawakubo: ReFusing fashion
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In order to justify the singular vision and approach of this celebrated Japanese fashion designer, the organisers of this retrospective at the MOCA, Detroit decided to create an all-compassing installation – with numerous individual pieces selected in order to reveal a complex and multifaceted whole. Presenting the fruits of a practice that spans more than 20 years, the exhibition and delightfully conceived catalogue present clothes and accessories designed both for Commes des Garçons and under her own name, shop designs, posters, advertisements, collaborations with architects, photographers, Merce Cunningham, and with those that wear and style the clothes. The publication is interspersed throughout with various images from the exhibition, film-stills, photographs and texts from five different authors.
Fashion Design
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Chanel head designer Karl Lagerfeld founded Métiers d'Arts in 2002 to showcase the talents of Chanel's seven specialist ateliers (that provide the couture house with costume jewelry, embroidery and millinery). This volume focuses on Chanel's 2008-2009 Métiers d'Arts collection Paris-Moscow. If Paris-Moscow indulges Lagerfeld's fascination for Russia through fashion, then(...)
Karl Lagerfeld : Chanel's Russian collection
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Chanel head designer Karl Lagerfeld founded Métiers d'Arts in 2002 to showcase the talents of Chanel's seven specialist ateliers (that provide the couture house with costume jewelry, embroidery and millinery). This volume focuses on Chanel's 2008-2009 Métiers d'Arts collection Paris-Moscow. If Paris-Moscow indulges Lagerfeld's fascination for Russia through fashion, then Russian Connection is that fascination embodied in book form. Lagerfeld's images evoke Imperial Russia, Constructivism, Catherine the Great, Fabergé, Russian folklore and Coco Chanel's own passion for Russia, via the great Ballets Russes, Byzantine jewelry and her affair with the Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich. Included here is a DVD featuring Lagerfeld's directorial debut, Coco 1913/Chanel 1923, a silent black-and-white film depicting Chanel's flirtation with Russian-Parisian émigré society in the 1910s and 1920s.
Fashion Design
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The idea of fashion under socialism conjures up images of babushka headscarves and black market blue jeans. And yet, as Djurdja Bartlett shows in this groundbreaking book, the socialist East had an intimate relationship with fashion. Official antagonism—which cast fashion as frivolous and antirevolutionary—eventually gave way to grudging acceptance and creeping(...)
Fashion East : the spectre that haunted socialism
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The idea of fashion under socialism conjures up images of babushka headscarves and black market blue jeans. And yet, as Djurdja Bartlett shows in this groundbreaking book, the socialist East had an intimate relationship with fashion. Official antagonism—which cast fashion as frivolous and antirevolutionary—eventually gave way to grudging acceptance and creeping consumerism. Bartlett outlines three phases in socialist fashion, and illustrates them with abundant images from magazines of the period: postrevolutionary utopian dress, official state-sanctioned socialist fashion, and samizdat-style everyday fashion. Utopian dress, ranging from the geometric abstraction of the constructivists under Bolshevism in the Soviet Union to the no-frills desexualized uniform of a factory worker in Czechoslovakia, reflected the revolutionary urge for a clean break with the past. The highly centralized socialist fashion system, part of Stalinist industrialization, offered official prototypes of high fashion that were never available in stores—mythical images of smart and luxurious dresses that symbolized the economic progress that socialist regimes dreamed of. Everyday fashion, starting in the 1950s, was an unofficial, do-it-yourself enterprise: Western fashions obtained through semiclandestine channels or sewn at home. The state tolerated the demand for Western fashion, promising the burgeoning middle class consumer goods in exchange for political loyalty. Bartlett traces the progress of socialist fashion in the Soviet Union, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, East Germany, Poland, and Yugoslavia, drawing on state-sponsored socialist women’s magazines, etiquette books, socialist manuals on dress, private archives, and her own interviews with designers, fashion editors, and other key figures. Fashion, she suggests, with all its ephemerality and dynamism, was in perpetual conflict with the socialist regimes’ fear of change and need for control. It was, to echo the famous first sentence from the Communist Manifesto, the spectre that haunted socialism until the end.
books
October 2010
Fashion Design
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Au XIXe siècle, les châles en cachemire suscitèrent une folle passion, fort bien décrite - et parfois raillée - par Balzac. Ramenés de la campagne d'Egypte par les soldats de Bonaparte, ils donnèrent naissance à une vogue qui se répandit comme une traînée de poudre. Une nouvelle industrie se développa alors en Europe pour répondre à cet engouement croissant, et Napoléon(...)
Cachemires: la création française 1800-1880
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Au XIXe siècle, les châles en cachemire suscitèrent une folle passion, fort bien décrite - et parfois raillée - par Balzac. Ramenés de la campagne d'Egypte par les soldats de Bonaparte, ils donnèrent naissance à une vogue qui se répandit comme une traînée de poudre. Une nouvelle industrie se développa alors en Europe pour répondre à cet engouement croissant, et Napoléon poussa les fabricants français à rivaliser d'astuce pour imiter ces cachemires hors de prix. L'invention du métier à tisser Jacquard permis alors d'exécuter des décors étonnamment riches et complexes. La production française, entraîna même les artisans du Cachemire à imiter les modèles envoyés de Paris. Monique Lévi-Strauss, retrace, dans cet ouvrage très documenté, illustré et complété par de récentes découvertes, l'histoire de cette production, symbole du génie industriel, du raffinement et de la délicatesse du XIXe siècle. Exploitant documents d'archives, comptes rendus d'expositions et collections privées et publiques, l'auteur explore ce pan de l'histoire des arts et des techniques et fait.
Fashion Design
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Mappamodello
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Mappamodello, by designer Nanni Strada, contains the models created in 1974 for the competition “Arab-Islamic National Dress” which subsequently became a classic in the collection produced and distributed by the Milanese shop “Oriente e Cina”. It consists of a series of clothes inspired by work clothes, and other models which, thanks to their ‘any size’ cut, appeared in(...)
Mappamodello
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Mappamodello, by designer Nanni Strada, contains the models created in 1974 for the competition “Arab-Islamic National Dress” which subsequently became a classic in the collection produced and distributed by the Milanese shop “Oriente e Cina”. It consists of a series of clothes inspired by work clothes, and other models which, thanks to their ‘any size’ cut, appeared in some of the world's most famous women's magazines, and were copied throughout the world. Mappamodello is a blueprint of these historic clothes, all contained on a single paper pattern.
books
October 2012
Fashion Design
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The contributors to this book explore how dynamic displays of costume have helped visualize certain key concerns of modernity, such as movement, time, transience and gender identity. Above all, the essays highlight the immense transformative potential of costume and fashion, both in the moving image and beyond.
Birds of paradise : costume as cinematic spectacle
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The contributors to this book explore how dynamic displays of costume have helped visualize certain key concerns of modernity, such as movement, time, transience and gender identity. Above all, the essays highlight the immense transformative potential of costume and fashion, both in the moving image and beyond.
Fashion Design
Women in clothes
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Women in Clothes embraces the complexity of women’s style decisions, revealing the sometimes funny, sometimes strange, always thoughtful impulses that influence our daily ritual of getting dressed.
Women in clothes
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Women in Clothes embraces the complexity of women’s style decisions, revealing the sometimes funny, sometimes strange, always thoughtful impulses that influence our daily ritual of getting dressed.
Fashion Design
Marimekko: in patterns
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Richly illustrated with photographs and prints both classic and new, this volume offers a behind-the-scenes tour of the brand's creative process. A colorful legacy is revealed, along with the innovative creators—from 1950s pioneers to twenty-first-century masters—who have shaped the company's heritage and continue to make visual magic today. Rare sketchbook pages,(...)
Marimekko: in patterns
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Richly illustrated with photographs and prints both classic and new, this volume offers a behind-the-scenes tour of the brand's creative process. A colorful legacy is revealed, along with the innovative creators—from 1950s pioneers to twenty-first-century masters—who have shaped the company's heritage and continue to make visual magic today. Rare sketchbook pages, in-depth looks at particular eras, and page after page of gorgeous designs make this a book sure to enchant anyone interested in fashion, art, or the patterned and color-drenched world of Marimekko.
Fashion Design
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This book is a manual on draping or, as it is known in France, moulage. Draping is a three-dimensional design and production technique that generates a considerable degree of freedom. From time immemorial, draping has been a technique frequently used in couture. Specialists Annette Duburg and Rixt van der Tol used their extensive collection of practical manuscripts to(...)
Draping: art and craftmanship in fashion design
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This book is a manual on draping or, as it is known in France, moulage. Draping is a three-dimensional design and production technique that generates a considerable degree of freedom. From time immemorial, draping has been a technique frequently used in couture. Specialists Annette Duburg and Rixt van der Tol used their extensive collection of practical manuscripts to provide this book with a clear set of instructions for draping. It opens up an area that functions as an interesting, supplementary design niche within today’s fashion design training.
Fashion Design