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Far from passive containers or neutral fields where particular objects are to be desired, bought, and sold, department stores constitute spaces formative for both shopping behaviour and culture. In the constantly changing environment, in an interplay between retail strategies and responses to customer behaviour, a negotiation is going on of what and who is of importance,(...)
Structuring fashion: department stores as situating practice
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Far from passive containers or neutral fields where particular objects are to be desired, bought, and sold, department stores constitute spaces formative for both shopping behaviour and culture. In the constantly changing environment, in an interplay between retail strategies and responses to customer behaviour, a negotiation is going on of what and who is of importance, who is to be given exposure, and what needs to be hidden. As such, department stores form intricate examples of how shopping spaces are sites of negotiation of public culture, and of reproducing or creating norms and ideas in society. Inspired by the work of Baudrillard and Butler, Wigley, and Williamson, this book investigates how department stores work as situating structures, in which we not only find what we want, but what we should want, who we are, how our society is arranged, and our role in it - an investigation that challenges our understanding of architecture and planning as well as of society in general. Daniel Koch is a researcher and teacher at the School of Architecture, Royal Institute of Technology, Stockholm, Sweden. Structural Fashion is his doctoral dissertation that develops and improves the theories of his former work on spatial systems as producers of meaning, refocusing the main inquiry onto departement stores.
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The rise of fashion
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In The Rise of Fashion, Daniel Leonhard Purdy brings together key writings from the Enlightenment to the twentieth century that explore fashion as the ultimate expression of modernity. Making available many previously untranslated or otherwise unfamiliar works from French, German, and English, Purdy establishes an extraordinary lineage of fashion commentary dating back to(...)
The rise of fashion
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In The Rise of Fashion, Daniel Leonhard Purdy brings together key writings from the Enlightenment to the twentieth century that explore fashion as the ultimate expression of modernity. Making available many previously untranslated or otherwise unfamiliar works from French, German, and English, Purdy establishes an extraordinary lineage of fashion commentary dating back to Mandeville and Voltaire, which laid the groundwork for the writings on commodity culture of Adorno, Benjamin, and the Frankfurt School. From critiques of aristocratic excess to accounts of fashion’s influence on our ideals of masculinity or femininity, from the figure of the dandy and the eroticism of clothing to the class politics of fashion, this landmark reader includes works by philosophers (Carlyle, Rousseau, Georg Simmel) and social theorists (Herbert Spencer, Veblen), as well as writers (Goethe, Baudelaire, Mallarmé, Wilde) and critics (Karl Kraus, Adolf Loos, Simone de Beauvoir).
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Les toques et turbans de Rembrandt, les foulards d'Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, George Sand en costume masculin, le pantalon de Rosa Bonheur, la robe de chambre de Balzac par Rodin, Marcel Duchamp en Rrose Sélavy, les Robes simultanées de Sonia Delaunay, la Robe serpent de Niki de Saint Phalle ou encore la perruque d'Andy Warhol... L'habit ferait-il l'artiste ? Dans une(...)
S'habiller en artiste : L'artiste et le vêtement
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Les toques et turbans de Rembrandt, les foulards d'Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, George Sand en costume masculin, le pantalon de Rosa Bonheur, la robe de chambre de Balzac par Rodin, Marcel Duchamp en Rrose Sélavy, les Robes simultanées de Sonia Delaunay, la Robe serpent de Niki de Saint Phalle ou encore la perruque d'Andy Warhol... L'habit ferait-il l'artiste ? Dans une exploration inédite du vêtement d'artiste de la Renaissance à nos jours, cet ouvrage présente plus de deux cents oeuvres - peintures, sculptures mais aussi vêtements, créations de haute couture, photographies et performances - et livre une autre manière de tisser ensemble histoire de la mode et histoire de l'art.
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La mode québécoise peut-elle réinventer son modèle pour devenir plus responsable et locale ? Les fibres naturelles sont-elles la clé pour réconcilier la mode et le respect de l'environnement ? Découvrez comment vos choix vestimentaires transforment ce secteur grâce à « Tisser l'avenir : Vers une mode québécoise responsable ». Entre histoire, innovation et durabilité, ce(...)
Tisser l'avenir: vers une mode québécoise responsable
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La mode québécoise peut-elle réinventer son modèle pour devenir plus responsable et locale ? Les fibres naturelles sont-elles la clé pour réconcilier la mode et le respect de l'environnement ? Découvrez comment vos choix vestimentaires transforment ce secteur grâce à « Tisser l'avenir : Vers une mode québécoise responsable ». Entre histoire, innovation et durabilité, ce manifeste pour la mode durable explore l'évolution de cet écosystème, de la production des fibres – naturelles, artificielles et synthétiques – jusqu'à leur commercialisation. Il valorise le savoir-faire régional, encourage les pratiques circulaires et appelle une communauté diversifiée – agriculteurs, designers, entrepreneurs – à repenser leurs pratiques. Une invitation à imaginer la mode non plus comme une simple industrie, mais comme un dialogue vivant entre tradition et innovation, de la ferme à la mode.
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Glamour is an alluring but elusive concept. We most readily associate it with fashion, industrial design, and Hollywood of the Golden Age, and yet it also shaped the language and interests of high modernism. In Glamour in Six Dimensions Judith Brown looks at the historical and aesthetic roots of glamour in the early decades of the twentieth century, arguing that glamour(...)
Glamour in six dimensions: modernism and the radiance of form
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Glamour is an alluring but elusive concept. We most readily associate it with fashion, industrial design, and Hollywood of the Golden Age, and yet it also shaped the language and interests of high modernism. In Glamour in Six Dimensions Judith Brown looks at the historical and aesthetic roots of glamour in the early decades of the twentieth century, arguing that glamour is the defining aesthetic of modernism. In the clean lines of modernism she finds the ideal conditions for glamour-blankness, polish, impenetrability, and the suspicion of emptiness behind it all.
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La rayure et les étoffes rayées sont longtemps restées en Occident des marques d'exclusion ou d'infamie. En furent notamment vêtus tous ceux qui, à un titre ou à un autre, se situaient aux marges de la société chrétienne ou bien en dehors : jongleurs, musiciens, bouffons, bourreaux, prostituées, condamnés, hérétiques, juifs, musulmans ainsi que, dans les images, le Diable(...)
L'étoffe du diable : une histoire des rayures et des tissus rayés
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La rayure et les étoffes rayées sont longtemps restées en Occident des marques d'exclusion ou d'infamie. En furent notamment vêtus tous ceux qui, à un titre ou à un autre, se situaient aux marges de la société chrétienne ou bien en dehors : jongleurs, musiciens, bouffons, bourreaux, prostituées, condamnés, hérétiques, juifs, musulmans ainsi que, dans les images, le Diable et toutes ses créatures. Sans faire aucunement disparaître ces rayures très négatives, l'époque romantique voit apparaître une nouvelle forme de rayures, positives et liées aux idées nouvelles de liberté, de jeunesse, de plaisir et de progrès. Dans les sociétés contemporaines, ces deux types de rayures cohabitent : celles des vêtements de prisonniers, de la pègre, des lieux dangereux et mortifères, et celles du jeu, du sport, de l'hygiène, de la mer et de la plage.
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Tartan
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Traditionally the visual sign of clanship and district, tartan was popularized outside Scotland by the tartan-clad Highland regiments and Queen Victoria's royal endorsement. Hollywood has continued to sustain the romantic fictions of tartan from Brigadoon to Braveheart. At the same time, designers such as Westwood and McQueen have deliberately subverted the traditional(...)
Tartan
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Traditionally the visual sign of clanship and district, tartan was popularized outside Scotland by the tartan-clad Highland regiments and Queen Victoria's royal endorsement. Hollywood has continued to sustain the romantic fictions of tartan from Brigadoon to Braveheart. At the same time, designers such as Westwood and McQueen have deliberately subverted the traditional and historical associations of the fabric, as have contemporary artists such as Matthew Barney. Post-punk, tartan now turns up in the most surprising places, influencing the conceptual clothing of a generation of Japanese designers such as Watanabe and Takahashi, the stage costumes of Outkast's Andre 3000 and contemporary interior design.
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Statements V
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Véronique Branquinho/ Jeremy Scott/ Raf Simons/ Bernhard Willhelm
Statements V
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Véronique Branquinho/ Jeremy Scott/ Raf Simons/ Bernhard Willhelm
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Mark Borthwick :
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Mark Borthwick is among the generation of photographers who in the ’90s broke through the conventions of fashion photography. Integrating elements of architecture and design, he has developed a very personal and intuitive style, and knows how to turn a static photo into a performance. His work is about the movement of the model, and the serendipity of accidental clutter(...)
janvier 2009, New York
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Mark Borthwick is among the generation of photographers who in the ’90s broke through the conventions of fashion photography. Integrating elements of architecture and design, he has developed a very personal and intuitive style, and knows how to turn a static photo into a performance. His work is about the movement of the model, and the serendipity of accidental clutter is as important to his images as the garments. This book showcases over 200 images from Borthwick’s best fashion editorials, celebrity portraits, and advertising work, as well as excerpts from his personal journals. The journal pages, consisting of Polaroids, sketches, and notes on shoots, reveal the workings of a photographer’s mind—the "behind the scenes" of the makings of a fashion image.
Me in my bag
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The target was set to photograph 100 londoners, we treated each person as an individual project as everyone is unique and special. Peolple chose their own ideal location to be photographed - at work, at home, on the street, even their favourite corner shop - wherever they felt most comfortable.
Création de mode
mai 2007, Taiwan
Me in my bag
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The target was set to photograph 100 londoners, we treated each person as an individual project as everyone is unique and special. Peolple chose their own ideal location to be photographed - at work, at home, on the street, even their favourite corner shop - wherever they felt most comfortable.
Création de mode