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Glamour is an alluring but elusive concept. We most readily associate it with fashion, industrial design, and Hollywood of the Golden Age, and yet it also shaped the language and interests of high modernism. In Glamour in Six Dimensions Judith Brown looks at the historical and aesthetic roots of glamour in the early decades of the twentieth century, arguing that glamour(...)
Glamour in six dimensions: modernism and the radiance of form
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Glamour is an alluring but elusive concept. We most readily associate it with fashion, industrial design, and Hollywood of the Golden Age, and yet it also shaped the language and interests of high modernism. In Glamour in Six Dimensions Judith Brown looks at the historical and aesthetic roots of glamour in the early decades of the twentieth century, arguing that glamour is the defining aesthetic of modernism. In the clean lines of modernism she finds the ideal conditions for glamour-blankness, polish, impenetrability, and the suspicion of emptiness behind it all.
Création de mode
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La rayure et les étoffes rayées sont longtemps restées en Occident des marques d'exclusion ou d'infamie. En furent notamment vêtus tous ceux qui, à un titre ou à un autre, se situaient aux marges de la société chrétienne ou bien en dehors : jongleurs, musiciens, bouffons, bourreaux, prostituées, condamnés, hérétiques, juifs, musulmans ainsi que, dans les images, le Diable(...)
L'étoffe du diable : une histoire des rayures et des tissus rayés
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La rayure et les étoffes rayées sont longtemps restées en Occident des marques d'exclusion ou d'infamie. En furent notamment vêtus tous ceux qui, à un titre ou à un autre, se situaient aux marges de la société chrétienne ou bien en dehors : jongleurs, musiciens, bouffons, bourreaux, prostituées, condamnés, hérétiques, juifs, musulmans ainsi que, dans les images, le Diable et toutes ses créatures. Sans faire aucunement disparaître ces rayures très négatives, l'époque romantique voit apparaître une nouvelle forme de rayures, positives et liées aux idées nouvelles de liberté, de jeunesse, de plaisir et de progrès. Dans les sociétés contemporaines, ces deux types de rayures cohabitent : celles des vêtements de prisonniers, de la pègre, des lieux dangereux et mortifères, et celles du jeu, du sport, de l'hygiène, de la mer et de la plage.
Création de mode
Tartan
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Traditionally the visual sign of clanship and district, tartan was popularized outside Scotland by the tartan-clad Highland regiments and Queen Victoria's royal endorsement. Hollywood has continued to sustain the romantic fictions of tartan from Brigadoon to Braveheart. At the same time, designers such as Westwood and McQueen have deliberately subverted the traditional(...)
Tartan
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Traditionally the visual sign of clanship and district, tartan was popularized outside Scotland by the tartan-clad Highland regiments and Queen Victoria's royal endorsement. Hollywood has continued to sustain the romantic fictions of tartan from Brigadoon to Braveheart. At the same time, designers such as Westwood and McQueen have deliberately subverted the traditional and historical associations of the fabric, as have contemporary artists such as Matthew Barney. Post-punk, tartan now turns up in the most surprising places, influencing the conceptual clothing of a generation of Japanese designers such as Watanabe and Takahashi, the stage costumes of Outkast's Andre 3000 and contemporary interior design.
Création de mode
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Par son jugement esthétique en matière de proportions, d’équilibre, de ligne et de forme, le modéliste joue un rôle incontournable dans le succès de la création de mode. Le modélisme ou l’architecture de la mode aborde le sujet sous cet angle, en identifiant les formes et structures essentielles des principaux vêtements pour les traduire en 3D via plusieurs procédés de(...)
Le modélisme ou l'architecture de la mode: réaliser vos patrons
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Par son jugement esthétique en matière de proportions, d’équilibre, de ligne et de forme, le modéliste joue un rôle incontournable dans le succès de la création de mode. Le modélisme ou l’architecture de la mode aborde le sujet sous cet angle, en identifiant les formes et structures essentielles des principaux vêtements pour les traduire en 3D via plusieurs procédés de coupe, moulage et construction.Ceux-ci sont explorés à travers une série de cas pratiques, richement illustrés et annotés d’instructions pas à pas. Cette nouvelle approche apportera au lecteur l’inspiration, les outils et l’assurance pour revisiter et adapter des patrons de base et pour oser des créations plus audacieuses.
Création de mode
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This book is the first in-depth exploration of the revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years and helped build an industry with global impact, yet have been largely forgotten. Focusing on female designers, the authors reclaim a place in history for the women who created not only for celebrities and socialites, but for millions of(...)
The hidden history of America fashion: rediscovering 20th century women designers
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This book is the first in-depth exploration of the revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years and helped build an industry with global impact, yet have been largely forgotten. Focusing on female designers, the authors reclaim a place in history for the women who created not only for celebrities and socialites, but for millions of fashion-conscious customers across the United States. From one of America's first couturiers, Jessie Franklin Turner, to Zelda Wynn Valdes, the book captures the lost histories of the luminaries who paved the way in the world of American fashion design. This fully illustrated collection takes us from Hollywood to Broadway, from sportswear to sustainable fashion, and explores important crossovers between film, theater, and fashion. Uncovering fascinating histories of the design pioneers we should know about, the book enlarges the prevailing narrative of fashion history and will be an important reference for fashion students, historians, costume curators, and fashion enthusiasts alike.
Création de mode
Boro: the art of necessity
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The Japanese term "boro" refers to rags and fabrics used for far longer than their expected lifespan. In order to recycle, transform, and create “new” textiles from old, various techniques are used such as patching and mending, reinforcing with simple stitch-work, or weaving from rags. Boro textiles were created throughout Japan from the 19th century into the 1950s,(...)
Boro: the art of necessity
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The Japanese term "boro" refers to rags and fabrics used for far longer than their expected lifespan. In order to recycle, transform, and create “new” textiles from old, various techniques are used such as patching and mending, reinforcing with simple stitch-work, or weaving from rags. Boro textiles were created throughout Japan from the 19th century into the 1950s, although the phenomenon can be traced far earlier. Published along with an exhibition in Stockholm, this book surveys the history of boro and examines its changing social, economic, and aesthetic status as a visual and conceptual source of inspiration for textile artists and designers, both in Japan and internationally.
Création de mode
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With her provocative synthesis of historic British fashion, classic painting aesthetics, and punk culture, Vivienne Westwood has continuously revolutionized the fashion industry since her first catwalk collection, 'Pirate,' debuted in 1981. Opening with a concise history of the house and brief biographical profiles of the British designer and her longtime collaborator(...)
Vivienne Westwood: the complete collections
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With her provocative synthesis of historic British fashion, classic painting aesthetics, and punk culture, Vivienne Westwood has continuously revolutionized the fashion industry since her first catwalk collection, 'Pirate,' debuted in 1981. Opening with a concise history of the house and brief biographical profiles of the British designer and her longtime collaborator Andreas Kronthaler, this volume documents all of Westwood’s catwalk collections from 1981 to today.
Création de mode
Dandy style
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The style of the dandy is elegant but bold — dedicated to the perfection of taste. This meticulously choreographed look has a vibrant history; the legacy of Beau Brummell, the original dandy of Regency England, can be traced in the clothing of urban dandies today. 'Dandy style' celebrates 250 years of male self-expression, investigating the portraiture and wardrobe of the(...)
Dandy style
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The style of the dandy is elegant but bold — dedicated to the perfection of taste. This meticulously choreographed look has a vibrant history; the legacy of Beau Brummell, the original dandy of Regency England, can be traced in the clothing of urban dandies today. 'Dandy style' celebrates 250 years of male self-expression, investigating the portraiture and wardrobe of the fashionable British man. Combining fashion, art, and photography, the historic and the contemporary, the provocative and the respectable, it considers key themes in the development of male style and identity, including elegance, uniformity, and spectacle. Various types of dandy are represented by iconic figures such as Oscar Wilde, Edward VIII as Prince of Wales, and Gilbert & George. They appear alongside the seminal designs of Vivienne Westwood, Ozwald Boateng, and Alexander McQueen; and portraits by Thomas Gainsborough and David Hockney.
Création de mode
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Weaving together historical and current protest movements across the globe, this publication explores how everyday people and the societies they live in harness the visual power of dress to fight for radical change. Costume designer and dress historian Camille Benda analyzes cultural movements and the clothes that defined them through over 150 archival images,(...)
Dressing the resistance: the visual language of protest through history
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Weaving together historical and current protest movements across the globe, this publication explores how everyday people and the societies they live in harness the visual power of dress to fight for radical change. Costume designer and dress historian Camille Benda analyzes cultural movements and the clothes that defined them through over 150 archival images, photographs, and paintings that bring the history of activism to life, from ancient Roman rebellions to the #MeToo movement, from twentieth-century punk subcultures to Black Lives Matter marches.
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Emblématique portraitiste de mode, « Prince des photographes », Cecil Beaton fut l’une des figures principales de cette vie mondaine et cosmopolite appelée Café Society. Et si nous savions de Cecil Beaton qu’il était un chroniqueur talentueux, nous découvrons dans cet ouvrage qu’il fut aussi un superbe écrivain. Au fil des pages, se succèdent les portraits de célébrités(...)
avril 2022
Cinquante ans d'élégances et d'art de vivre
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Emblématique portraitiste de mode, « Prince des photographes », Cecil Beaton fut l’une des figures principales de cette vie mondaine et cosmopolite appelée Café Society. Et si nous savions de Cecil Beaton qu’il était un chroniqueur talentueux, nous découvrons dans cet ouvrage qu’il fut aussi un superbe écrivain. Au fil des pages, se succèdent les portraits de célébrités tels Balenciaga, Dior, Chanel, mais aussi d’élégantes, de modèles, de photographes et de tant d’autres. Ainsi Beaton encense-t-il une époque, se souvient des gens d’influence, rallume le chic, l’esprit et la déraison.